Gorges du Verdon

Practical information:

The Verdon is first and foremost a destination for climbers with a genuine climbing culture. Those looking to take on something big, vertical and sometimes committing. Access is often by abseil, exposure is constant, and grades have a reputation for being serious even at the levels stated. But that is precisely why climbers travel from around the world to climb here. That said, a number of routes remain perfectly accessible and well suited to an introduction or a gradual progression through the many climbs on offer.

Seasons:

The Verdon can be climbed year-round by choosing the right exposition. In summer, favour walls that stay in the shade in the morning (routes on the Paroi du Duc, the Imbut cliff or for example « Petra Aliena » at the Estellié. In the afternoon you might want to have a look at the Vernis cliff. Spring and autumn are the most versatile seasons, with virtually any exposition in condition. Winter, on the other hand, is often too cold for climbing inside the gorge itself. You can fall back on the cliffs near the entrance to the gorges or those around Aiguines and Moustiers : south and west-facing faces, with panoramic views over Lac de Sainte-Croix.

Access and logistics:

A good proportion of routes are accessible only by abseil from the Route des Crêtes. You rappel down before you climb. This is one of the Verdon's most distinctive features. Bring a double rope, a solid understanding of rappeling technique and always check the weather forecast in advance. Base camp is the village of La Palud-sur-Verdon, with a grocery store, two bars, a climbing shop and campsites. Some routes are also reached on foot via the Martel trail or more rugged, exposed paths.

Route Selection:

From the Jardin des Écureuils to the Paroi du Duc, from the Grand Eycharme to the Vernis cliff, the Gorges du Verdon offers a wide range of styles, grades and atmospheres. Here is a selection of reference routes, from the most accessible to the most committing.

L'Arête de la Patte de Chèvre

Col de l'Âne · 5b+ max · 7 pitches · 130m

An ideal first multi-pitch route in the Verdon: approach and descent both on foot with no abseils required, generous bolting and accessible grades. Seven short pitches on varied rock (slabs with « water drop » pockets, cracks and chimneys), with a stunning view over Lac de Sainte-Croix. This relatively recent sector, developed by Pascal Faudou, offers a genuine multi-pitch experience in the Verdon in a setting well suited to beginners and those working towards greater autonomy.

Bwana Maline

Petit Eycharme · 5c max · 4 pitches · 70m

A short multi-pitch on beautiful rock. Only 60 metres of height gain across four pitches on the highly sculptured limestone typical of the Verdon. Access via a single 50m abseil.

L'Herbetto

Imbut · 4c max · 10 pitches · 180m

An easy route in a wild setting, where the approach through the Maugué gorge to the canyon floor is an adventure in itself. This is a route you climb for the immersion rather than the technical challenge. Its length gives it a real sense of scale while remaining very accessible in terms of difficulty. The terrain also lends itself well to an introduction to placing natural protection if you choose to supplement the existing bolts (not necessary though).

L'Usage du Monde

Mainmorte · 5b+ max · 5 pitches · 120m

A recent short multi-pitch (2018) by Pascal Faudou, an excellent introduction to multi-pitch climbing in a remote corner of the gorge. The original approach via the Mainmorte via ferrata adds a touch of adventure before you even start climbing. Beautiful rock, unspoilt atmosphere and comfortable belays. Always check the condition of any fixed ropes on the approach.

Catalunya Mon Amour

Escalès, Jardin des Écureuils · TD · 6b max · 4 pitches · 150m

A modern route opened in 2015, four long pitches on highly sculptured rock. Beautiful climbing on typical grey Verdon limestone. Two outstanding pitches at 6b, including a physical finale near the top. A solid alternative to Afin que Nul ne Meure for parties looking for something a little more sustained in the same sector.

Valse pour Manon

Paroi du Duc · TD · 6b max · 6 pitches · 220m

The most accessible classic on the Paroi du Duc : The most massive and austere cliff in the gorge. Climbing on north-face limestone, compact with little texture but beautifully sculptured. A 6c+ exit variant is available for those who want more (two technical crux moves requiring precise footwork and determined pulling). Descent via 4 long exposed abseils from the final belay. The north-facing exposition makes this one of the few options for climbing in the shade in summer (start early !). The ideal route to discover this iconic sector before tackling its harder neighbours.

Petra Aliena

L'Estellié · 6b+ max · 6 pitches · 180m

A relatively recent route on the left bank. Quick approach on foot and an even quicker way back from the Auberge des Cavaliers, combined with its north-facing exposition, make this an excellent choice on hot summer days. Every pitch is beautiful, with an exceptional fourth pitch on original rock with an abundance of crimpy holds.

Une Pincée de Ketchup

Vernis · 6c max · 10 pitches · 280m

Quite possibly one of the finest routes in the gorge (though there are many contenders). 280m of sustained climbing in the 6b range on immaculate rock throughout, with consistently reassuring protection. The route alternates slabs, traverses, corners and cracks in a remarkable variety of styles. The Vernis cliff faces east and falls into shade by midday, making an early afternoon start ideal in summer. Approach on foot then two 45m abseils. Descent on foot along the ridge back to the road.

L’âme Fatale

Falaise du Belvédère · 6c max · 200m

A route that has become famous for one pitch in particular: the 6c finale up a slender, airy arete : spectacular and exposed, an unforgettable pitch. The rest of the route is consistent in the 6b range, with grades that feel relatively generous by Verdon standards. A fine outing in a fairly remote section of the gorge.

La Demande

Escalès · 6a+ max · 350m · TRAD

Opened in 1968, La Demande is the second route ever climbed in the Gorges du Verdon and remains one of its most mythical lines. Over 300 metres of cracks and corners to be protected entirely on gear. The grades should not be taken lightly. The climbing is sustained throughout and you need to be confident placing protection and moving efficiently to stay on schedule. A serious undertaking despite the grades on paper.

Bottes sur Bottes

Escalès · 5c max · 3 pitches · TRAD

A short but serious historical route. A radical introduction to traditional Verdon-style climbing. No fixed gear whatsoever: everything is protected on friends, wires and hexes, with larger sizes particularly useful. The opening crack with fist jams, followed by strenuous off-width and stemming pitches, will surprise anyone unfamiliar with the style (graded V/V+ at the first ascent in 1981).

Les Caquous

Grand Eycharme · 6c+ max · 200m

One of the gorge's historical crack lines, opened in 1974 in a wild sector well away from the Escalès. The route follows a near-direct line of steep, sustained cracks for 200m. Climbing is predominantly in the laybacking and stemming style, committing and physically demanding. The access abseils are among the most impressive I have done and will leave their own lasting impression. The recent re-bolting (2020) on 12mm expansion bolts allows you to tackle this historic line with confidence. The first section and the A0 roof can be bypassed by finishing the abseils at the first belay. A route that requires a solid team comfortable in the crack climbing style.