Cap Canaille

Practical Information:

Seasons:

Cap Canaille climbs all year-round, although summer requires a bit of planning. The cliff faces mainly south to south-west, which means it catches sun for most of the day. In hot weather, an early start lets you climb in the shade before the heat becomes too much. Autumn, winter and spring are reliably good: the sun warms the rock nicely and even mid-winter days can offer excellent conditions while still climbing shirts off. Like all massifs in the area, access can be restricted because of fire risk in summer. Always check the local regulations before heading out (fire risk map and park regulations).

Access and regulations:

The cliff is reached via the Route des Crêtes between Cassis and La Ciotat, which is a spectacular panoramic road that runs along the top of the cliff with sea views at every bend. Most climbs are accessed directly from the roadside parking spots: either a short walk of a few minutes, or a quick abseil straight down onto the cliff face. Cap Canaille is one of the locations where you can access rock the fastest in the whole region.

Who is it for?

Beginners and experienced climbers alike, with or without a certified climbing guide. Accessible routes like Au gré du grès (5c) or the easy pitches of L'Atelier Bleu (4c) make for a wonderful introduction to multi-pitch climbing, while more demanding lines, like the iconic « Galet-Jade » and « Tout est une Question d'Angle » are there for climbers looking for something more serious.

Route Selection:

From the Bec de l'Aigle to the Sémaphore cliff, Cap Canaille packs a remarkable range of styles into one massif. You can find limestone, sandstone and conglomerate sometimes all within the same route. Here are some of our favourite itineraries, from the most accessible to the most technical.

Via Cordata 'Trou Souffleur'

La Ciotat · From age 9 · No climbing experience required

Rappels, zip lines and easy climbing above the sea. This little adventure is an ideal first step into the vertical world of Cap Canaille and is open to everyone regardless of experience. If the waves are strong on a particular day you get to experience the natural phenomenon of the “Trou Souffleur”. This is where air is forced through a crack in the cliff by the waves and creates a sight worth seeing. It will stop you in your tracks!

L'Atelier Bleu

Bec de l'Aigle · 4c max · 130m · North-east facing

This relaxed, accessible route that stays in the shade for much of the day is a relief in the summer. It offers an enjoyable, varied style assortment of climbing and is well away from the busier sectors. A good choice for a gentle introduction to multi-pitch in a wild setting with sea views.

Via Cordata 'Traversée Philémon'

Cap Canaille · From age 13

More committing than the « Trou souffleur », this via cordata offers successive rappels (over 100 metres of descent in total) through the dramatic formations of Cap Canaille. It then traverses along exposed ledges above the sea, with short climbing sections and airy moves throughout. Everything is protected by fixed ropes that are installed by your climbing guide. This outing is best suited for fit and confident participants.

La Stratégie du Crabe

Pas de la Chèvre · 6a max · 8 pitches · Traversing

A very 3D route that weaves between the geological layers of Cap Canaille, this route provides a journey through a narrow chimney to start, varied slabs, exposed traverses and conglomerate higher up. The overhanging traverse in pitch 7, which is 100+ meters above the ground, will be a memory you won’t forget. It is a great adventure at a moderate grade before venturing into the harder lines of the « Grand Draïoun ».

Le Bitard à Rudiste

Ouvreur de Bouse · 6a+ max · 110m

This climb is hard to beat in terms of its quick access: it is two minutes from the road, then two full-on 45m rappels to the cliff base. It is a logical, direct line that became a classic almost immediately after its opening and it offers excellent rock and thoughtful bolting. It is the ideal route to experience the Cap Canaille style without committing to a long approach.

Rêve d'Abricot

Grand Draïoun · 7a max · 170m

Underrated and outstanding, every pitch is superb, and the route gets more beautiful and more intense with every pitch. It has generous bolting despite the sustained climbing. The style shifts from vertical to overhangs to cracks to conglomerate, with what might be one of the most overhanging 6a+ pitches you'll ever climb in pitch 2. A route that deserves a place among the great classics of the Draïoun.

Galet-Jade

Grand Draïoun · 7a+ max · 200m

The well known route of the Grand Draïoun, mainly for its final pitch: a traverse under an airy roof that appears to hang directly above the sea, 200 metres below. It does not require as much powerful climbing as you would think, even if it is quite impressive when you see it from the ground. Ultra-close bolting makes it accessible to the widest range of climbers at this level, with an obligatory grade of around 6a+. The route crosses three types of rock: limestone, sandstone and conglomerate, for an unusually varied experience.

Tout est une Question d'Angle

Sémaphore · 7b max · 7 pitches · 170m

Few routes have a more recognisable image than this one, which is the orange crack of « Tout est une Question d'Angle » that graces the cover of « The Hundred Finest Routes in Provence ». That famous crack is actually more accessible than it looks: the real challenge is in the boulder problem that follows it and the final pitch, a sustained and pumpy 7b on big holds in an overhanging style that gym climbers will love. It has been Re-bolted on stainless steel in 2020.